Getting Around Paris

Central Paris is compact, and often the best way to get around is by walking. However, visitors unfamiliar with the driving rules and undisciplined French driving need to use caution. Bicycling in Paris can also be dangerous, due to traffic conditions and aggressive drivers. Bike lanes are often not respected. Driving a car in the city center is not recommended. Traffic is often heavy, there are many one-way streets, and parking is difficult and expensive. However, a bus, metro and RER train system, operated by the RATP, makes getting around cheap and easy. The city is divided into five travel zones: zones 1 and 2 correspond to the center and zones 3, 4 and 5 to the suburbs and airport. The city is also divided into 20 arrondissements (see below), which will help visitors in their search for addresses.

Paris Arrondissements

Bus

The Paris bus system is user-friendly and a great way to see the city. Buses are marked with the route number and destination in front and with major stopping places along the sides. The brown bus shelters contain timetables and route maps. Maps are also found on each bus. To get off, press one of the red buttons mounted on the silver poles that run the length of the bus and the arrêt demandé (stop requested) light directly above the driver will light up. Use the rear door to exit (some require you to push a silver button to open the door).
Tickets & Schedules

You can use your métro ticket on buses; if you have individual tickets (as opposed to weekly or monthly tickets), be prepared to punch your ticket in the gray machines on board the bus. Your best bet is to buy a carnet of 10 tickets for EUR 10.70 at any métro station, or you can buy a single ticket on-board (exact change appreciated) for EUR 1.40. You need to show (but not punch) weekly, monthly, and Paris-Visite/Mobilis tickets to the driver.

Tickets can be bought on buses, in the métro, or in any bar/tabac store displaying the lime-green métro symbol above its street sign. Most routes operate from 6 AM to 8:30 PM; some continue until midnight. During weekday rush hours there are usually buses every five minutes, with waits up to 15 minutes on weekends or evenings. Some bus shelters have digital signs indicating the wait time. The newly improved night bus service, called the Noctilien, has 35 routes that operate within Paris every 15-30 minutes (12:30 AM-5:30 AM) between Châtelet, four of the city's five train stations, and various nearby suburbs.

Bus Information:

RATP (54 quai de la Rapée, 75012, Paris. 08-92-68-77-14 EUR .35 per min. www.ratp.com).

An art nouveau Métro entrance

Paris Métro

The Paris métro is by far the quickest and most efficient way to get around Paris. Trains run from 5:30 AM until 1 AM (and be forewarned - this means the famous "last métro" can pass your station anytime after 12:30am ). Stations are signaled either by a large yellow m within a circle or by their distinctive curly green Art Nouveau railings and archway entrances bearing the subway's full title (Métropolitain). It's essential to know the name of the last station on the line you take, as this name appears on all signs. A connection (you can make as many as you like on one ticket) is called a correspondance. At junction stations illuminated orange signs bearing the name of the line terminal appear over the correct corridors for correspondances. Illuminated blue signs marked sortie indicate the station exit.

In general, the Paris métro is safe, although try to avoid the larger, mazelike stations at Les Halles and République if you're alone late at night, and try and ride in the first car behind the conductor. Access to métro platforms is through an automatic ticket barrier. Slide your ticket in and pick it up and retrieve it as it pops up. Keep your ticket during your journey; you will need it to leave the RER system, and you'll be glad you have it in case you run into any green-clad inspectors when you are leaving - they can be very unpleasant and will impose a big fine on the spot if you do not have a ticket.

A Paris Metro Station

While generally safe overall, muggings do sometimes occur in the métro system. A favorite mode is for muggers to "sandwich" you as you attempt to exit the turnstiles; others make their attack on the lengthy escalators at the métro exits. Pickpockets are close enough and nimble-fingered enough to rob you in a split second. These pickpockets work in groups, never alone - one will divert your attention while the other whisks away your wallet or your passport (which you should placing in your back pocket or shoulder purse). Prevention of petty crime is the same the world over. Just use discretion and caution while maintaining your physical comfort zone in crowded places. Fortunately, as large cities go, Paris remains for the most part a safe city.

Paris Metro & RER Fares & Schedules

All métro tickets and passes are valid for RER (within Paris) and bus travel as well; tickets cost EUR 1.40 each, but it makes more sense to buy a carnet (10 tickets) for EUR 10.70. If you're staying for a week or more, the best deals are the weekly or monthly carte orange (orange card), sold according to zone. Zones 1 and 2 cover the entire métro network; tickets cost EUR 15.70 a week or EUR 51.50 a month. If you plan to take suburban trains to visit places in the Ile-de-France, consider a four-zoner (Versailles, St-Germain-en-Laye; EUR 25.70 a week) or a six-zoner (Rambouillet, Fontainebleau; EUR 34.80 a week). Weekly and monthly passes are available from rail and major métro stations, and require a passport-size photograph.

Métro/RER/bus Ticket

An alternative for métro travel is to purchase one, two, three, or five-day unlimited-travel tickets (Paris Visite). Unlike the carte orange "hebdo" (the weekly pass for unlimited travel beginning on a Monday and ending on a Sunday evening), the unlimited ticket is valid starting any day of the week and gives you discounts on a limited number of museums and tourist attractions. The prices are, respectively, EUR 8.35, EUR 13.70, EUR 18.25, and EUR 26.65 for Paris only; for Paris and the suburbs, prices are nearly twice as much. The one-day transportation-only ticket is called mobilis and costs EUR 5.40 (Paris only) or EUR 7-EUR 18.40 (Paris plus suburbs).

Métro Information:

RATP (08-92-68-41-14. www.ratp.fr)

Charles de Gaulle-Etoile station on the RER A

Using the RER

The RER is a system of commuter trains traveling underground in central Paris and above groung in outlying areas. Both metro tickets and passes are valid on it. There are four lines, known by their letters: A, B, C and D. Each line forks. For example, Line C has six forks, labeled C1, C2 etc. All RER trains bear names (for example, ALEX or VERA) to make it easier to read RER timetables in the station halls and on the platforms. Digital panels on all RER platforms indicate train name, direction of travel (terminus) and upcoming stations.

RER logo

RER stations are identified by a large circled logo. The main city stations are Charles de Gaulle-Etoile, Châtelet-Les Halles, Gare de Lyon, Nation, St-Michel-Notre Dame, Auber, and the Gare du Nord.

The RER and metro systems overlap in central Paris. It is often quicker to take an RER train to a station served by both, as in the case of La Défense and Nation. However, getting into the RER stations, which are often linked to the metro by a maze of corridors, can be very time consuming.

The RER is particularly useful for getting to Paris airports and to many of the outlying towns and tourist attractions. Line B3 serves Charles de Gaulle airport; Lines B4 and C2 serve Orly Airport; Line A4 goes to the Euro Disney Resort; and Line C5 runs to Versailles.

Buying a RER/Metro Ticket
Train tickets are sold in the entrance halls of all metro and RER stations. Some metro and all RER stations have coin-operated machines selling individual tickets or packs of ten (carnets). station agents and ticket sellers also provide information and direct travelers to their destinations. All tickets on the metro are second class, but for the RER you can buy first or second-class tickets.

One metro ticket entitles you to travel anywhere in zones 1 and 2 on metro and RER trains. RER trips outside the center of Paris (such as to the airports) requires special tickets. Fares to suburbs and nearby towns vary. Consult the fare charts posted in all stations. Passengers on Paris transportation must retain their tickets during the trip; regular inspections are made and fines can be imposed for not having a ticket.

Paris by Car

The aggressive and bewildering style of Parisian drivers is usually enough to deter visitors from getting behind the wheel. Traffic moves at a snail's pace, and parking is a nightmare. Meters and ticket machines (pay and display) are common and in Paris work only with parking cards (cartes de stationnement). They work like credit cards in the parking meters and come in three denominations: EUR 10, EUR 20, and EUR 30. Since parking in Paris runs a whopping EUR 2 per hour, you should invest in the EUR 30 option if you can.

Parking cards are available at any café posting the red tabac sign. Insert your card into the nearest meter, choose the approximate amount of time you expect to stay, and you'll receive a green receipt, which must be clearly visible to the meter patrol; place it on the dashboard on the inside of the front window on the passenger side. There's no shortage of underground parking garages, with the most expensive ones in the center of town, designated by a white "P" on a blue square. The only time parking is free is on Sunday and in certain streets in August, designated with a yellow circle sticker on the parking meter. While the speed limits are rarely enforced in France, parking fines are handed out regularly, and any cars illegally parked will be towed.

Gasoline stations are usually well-hidden on small streets within the city and charge absurdly high prices; the ones in hypermarket parking lots around the Paris periphique, or ring road, are a better deal and open 24-hours.

The major ring road encircling Paris is called the periphique, with the periphique intérieur going counterclockwise around the city, and the periphique extérieur, or the outside ring, going clockwise. Up to five lanes wide, the periphique is a major highway from which portes (gates) connect Paris to the major highways of France. The names of these highways function on the same principle as the métro, with the final destination as the determining point in the direction you must take.

For instance, heading north, look for Porte de la Chapelle (direction Lille and Charles de Gaulle Airport); east, for Porte de Bagnolet (direction Metz and Nancy); south, for Porte d'Orléans (direction Lyon and Bordeaux); and west, for Porte d'Auteuil (direction Rouen and Chartres) or Porte de St-Cloud. Other portes include Porte de la Villette; Porte de Pantin; Porte de Bercy (A4 to Reims); Porte d'Italie; and Porte de Maillot (A14 to Rouen).

Paris Taxi Stand

Traveling by Taxi in Paris

Taxis are more expensive than trains or buses, but they are an advantage after 1am, when the metro has stopped running. There are taxi stands throughout Paris; a list of some of these is provided below.

Catching a Taxi
There are close to 10,000 taxis operating in central Paris. Yet there never seem to be enough of them to meet demand, particularly during rush hours and on Friday and Saturday nights.

Although taxis can be hailed in the streets of Paris, you can't hail a cab in the street if it is less then 50 meters (165 ft) away from a taxi rank. Since taxi ranks always take priority over street stops, the easiest way to get a cab is to find a rank and join the line. Taxi ranks are found at many busy crossroads; at main metro and RER stations, hospitals, train stations and airports

Taxi Roof Sign

An illuminated white light on the roof shows that the taxi is available. A

small light lit below means that the taxi is occupied. If the white light is covered, the taxi is off duty. Taxis on their last run can refuse to take passengers.

The meter should have a specified initial amount showing on it when you first enter the taxi. Initial charges on radio taxis vary widely, depending on the distance the taxi covers to arrive at the pick-up point. No checks or credit cards are accepted as payment.

The rates vary with the part of the city and the timeof day. Rate A is the center-city rate and is measured by the kilometer traveled. The higher rate B applies to the center of Paris, Sundays, holidays and night (7pm to 7am), or daytime in the suburbs or airports. Rate C applies to the suburbs and airports at night. Again, this rate is higher. Taxis will charge extra for each piece of luggage carried.

Paris Taxi Stand Directory

Taxi Ranks Charles de Gaulle-Etoile 1 Ave Wagram 75017 Tel. 01 43 80 01 99 Eiffel Tower Quai Branly 75007 Tel. 01 45 55 85 41 Metro Concorde 252 Rue de Rivoli 75001 Tel. 01 42 61 67 60 Place de Clichy Pl de Clichy 75009 Tel. 01 42 85 00 00 Place Denfert-Rochereau 297 Blvd Raspail 75014 Tel. 01 43 35 00 00 Place de la Madelaine 8 Blvd Malesherbes 75008 Tel. 01 42 65 00 00 Place de la République 1 Ave de la République 75011 Tel. 01 43 55 92 64 Place St-Michel 29 Quai St-Michel 75 005 Tel. 01 43 29 63 66 Place du Trocadéro 1 Ave D'Eylau 75016 Tel. 01 47 27 00 00 Rond Point des Champs-Elysée 7 Ave Matignon 75008 Tel. 01 42 56 29 00 St-Paul St-Paul Tel. 01 48 87 49 39

Calling for a Taxi Alpha Tel. 01 45 85 85 85 (operate 24-hours throughout the Ile-de-France region) Artaxi Tel. 01 42 41 50 50 Reservations: 01 42 08 64 59 G7 Tel. 01 47 39 47 39 Reservations: 01 47 39 32 51 (They have cars that can accommodate wheelchairs) Les Taxis Bleus Tel. 01 49 36 10 10 (One of the largest taxi companies in Paris) SNCF Information General Information Tel. 01 45 55 60 00 Information in English Tel. 01 45 82 08 41 TAA (car trains) Tel. 01 40 19 60 11 Ticket Reservations Tel. 08 36 35 35 35

Walking

Walking aroung Paris is one of the best ways to explore the city. Paris is surprisingly pedestrian-friendly - it's compact and there are few hills. As in the US, cars drive on the right-hand side of the street. There are many two-stage crossings where pedestrians wait on an island in the center of the road before proceding. These are marked Piétons traversez en deux temps. Exercise caution when crossing.


Bicycle

As a general rule, Parisians don't much like to share the road, and cycling in Paris can be less than an enjoyable experience. Making matters worse, bikes are not allowed on the metro.

But recently, in an attempt to lessen the use of automobiles in Paris, the city instituted a bicycle rental program. More than 10,000 stolid, gray-painted bicycles were made available for rent at 750 self-service locations throughout Paris. The cost is modest, less than $1.50 for a one-day pass, about $7.50 for a week and about $43.50 for a year — and the bikes can be dropped off at any docking station. The city of Paris plans to double the number of bikes by the end of 2007. During the first week of use the bikes were all over central Paris, many carrying both commuters and tourists. (An outdoor advertising company paid for everything in return for exclusive use of city-owned billboards.)


Water

There are river shuttles along the Seine, but these cater more to tourists wanting to slowly soak up the sights along the way than to commuters trying to get somewhere.



Disabled Travelers

Paris is not particularly well equipped for les handicapés (disabled people): curb ramps are few and far between, older public facilities and bottom-end hotels usually lack lifts, and the metro, most of which was built decades ago, is inaccessible for those in a wheelchair (fauteuil roulant). But disabled people who would like to visit Paris can overcome these problems. Most hotels with two or more stars are equipped with lifts, and Michelin's Guide Rouge indicates hotels with lifts and facilities for disabled people. For details of sites that provide facilities for the handicapped, go to parisinfo.com.